After being harvested, the fibers are separated from the seeds in a process called ginning. Then comes the sorting and cleaning step to rid the fibers of bigger impurities, such as leaves or branches and other plant residues.
After these first two steps, the cotton is carded: it is brushed to be disentangled and so that the fibers are parallel. While all cotton is carded, not all is combed. Only the longest cotton fibers go through the combing stage through a series of combs that remove the short threads, or 10 to 25% of the fibers.
Combed cotton yarn is softer to the touch and smoother. It makes it possible to obtain more refined fabrics than carded cotton yarn, which results in fabrics with character and authenticity. According to the characteristics expected by each item, Saint James cotton clothes are either in carded cotton, like the MERIDIEN MODERNE striped shirt or in combed cotton like the MINQUIDAME or MINQUIERS MODERNE Breton striped shirt.
The transformation of cotton threads intended for our marinière or Breton Shirts is provided by French manufacturers (circular knitting). For cotton sweaters, knitting is carried out in Saint James (rectilinear knitting).